Scorpions and Bombs

The beaches of the Sunda islands are a shell lover’s dream. Covered in every shape and size of shell, it is impossible to walk along them without picking up a memento.

This Lambis scorpius (aka the Scorpion Spider Conch) is one of many I found, and I chose to photograph this particular specimen because of its intense colour.

Taking a rest in the heat on Banta Island beach

Living in the shallows among coral gardens and reef rubble, they are abundant in this part of the world. Local people enjoy the plentiful meat they contain, and I often find piles of discarded shells (sometimes with fire marks from being cooked) thrown on the beach by fishing villages.

There are several species of conch in Indonesia, but it is difficult to find undamaged Lambis scorpius. The “fingers” are long and delicate (reminiscent of a scorpion’s tail) and break off easily.

SY Esper at anchor along the edge of Banta Island’s northern bay

Before we arrived at the Komodo National Park, we stopped due west in the big bay of uninhabited Banta Island. It is one of the most spectacular places we have seen.

With no light pollution, the stars sparkled against the night sky, and the Milky Way stretched to the horizon’s edge. Alone each night we fell into deep sleep, listening to the lapping of wavelets on shore and the occasional call from birds, bats, and animals on land.

The fish jumped and splashed, hunting and being hunted.

The only blot in this natural paradise was the sound of dynamite-fishing shuddering through our hull. Despite the practice being outlawed, it is still thriving in these remote places.

Come on Indonesia, it is time you sorted out this deadly and appalling custom.

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